Pousada Santa Clara, Boipeba, Bahia
Category: beachPrice: $
"Absolute paradise...the ultimate place to chill out"I first came across the Pousada Santa Clara a few years ago when I was looking for a place to stay where I could de-stress on a deserted beach. I didn’t expect to find anywhere quite as wonderful as this, - the original “hidden pousada”. Santa Clara has 11 rooms, scattered amongst tropical gardens- all basic, but en-suite, with verandas, mosquito nets, hammocks and good showers. There are no telephones, cable TV or any reliable internet connection, but people that like this place best don’t come for that. What makes Santa Clara really special is the atmosphere created by the owners, Mark and Charles, the superb restaurant, the relaxing massages, the “library” of books, where you can walk off with a new one to read in return for your old one, and the interesting people you always seem to meet. If you add that to walks along deserted beaches to eat freshly caught lobster and caipirinhas on the beach at sunset, for me that’s about as close to paradise as you can get.About the locationBoipeba is a jewel of an island located amongst the mangrove swamps to the south of Salvador- and southeast of the much better known Morro de Sao Paulo. Boipeba is the main village, and the island is predominantly just miles and miles of deserted unspoilt sandy beaches with the occasional fishing village and small shacks where you can stop for a beer or coconut water and often freshly caught fish and seafood. Boats usually drop you, on arrival, by the beach bars right on Boipeba beach, and this is where the sun sets, around 6pm, year round, directly in front of you.Not to be missed.. A caipirinha at one of the beachbars in Boipeba, watching the sun go down…-dinner at the Santa Clara restaurant-A moqueca at the Panela de Barro in Boipeba village-Lobsters at Guido’s on Cueira beach-Casquinho de Siri at Cristiano and Marli’s in Ponta de Castelhano-Walks to Tassimirim, Cueira and Morere beaches-A caipirinha every night, at sunset, on Boipeba beachGetting there without a carGetting to Boipeba actually has to be without a car, as there are no cars on the island; only a couple of tractors which double as taxis!There are several ways of reaching Boipeba but the main ways of getting to the island are:-by air from Salvador. ADDEI runs 3 flights a day in each direction at a cost of around R$300 one-way. The last part of the trip to Boipeba is done by boat, and is included in the price.-by taxi, ferry, bus, and boat from Salvador. Taxi to the ferryboat port in Salvador, ferry to Bom Despacho on Itaparica island, bus (which will be waiting) to Valenca, another bus (or van or taxi) to Graciosa, and then either the slowboat or catamaran to Boipeba beach, 2 minutes from the Pousada Santa Clara (total time 5-6 hours!)Starpoints at the Pousada Santa Clara* the tranquillity and natural beauty; * the wonderfully relaxed atmosphere created by Charles and Mark* conversations with fellow travellers at the superb Santa Clara restaurant/bar* the “library” of books left by previous travellers which you can exchange for yoursTry a different place..-if you want nightlife and discos. There are no clubs, and most places in Boipeba close around 9pm-if you have difficulty walking, or jumping off boats, or paddling through water to get boat to beach-if you like organised excursions. Things are very informal here and few guides speak English.-if you can’t live without phones, internet, cable TV, or 24hr service-if you get upset about changing schedules and last-minute changes. They happen!
Posted by Alison McGowan at 06:02